India 2013 part 1

I will be covering my tour of India in 2 parts. Please enjoy!

For a slideshow of my photos scroll to the bottom of this entry (you can click on the slideshow there to open in Picasa for a larger sized view)

Delhi

Air India is a pretty basic service with nothing to recommend its business class except for having front of the plane and larger seats. Service was mostly one of ignorance! Anyway we did have wheelchair assist for Mom so were able to bypass the enormous immigrations queues and that was worth a great deal. Our driver and a tour company rep were waiting for us on arrival and then it was into Delhi traffic to go to the tour office to settle the balance and get the hotel and travel vouchers for the remainder of our tour.

First hotel was Le Meridien (part of the Starwoods Group) and fulfilled its billing. It is located in New Delhi away from any shopping so we were basically stuck with the hotel restaurants for eating options. Especially so since the Delhi Police had already started to shut roads in preparation for Republic Day celebrations scheduled for the end of the month - pretty amazing lead time!

All to the good as Mom did some shopping in the hotel and we were both quite pleased with prices and selection.

Sunday morning and off to tour Delhi. Right off the bat the guide had no problems with a personal request and we headed to the Sacred Heart Cathedral for Mom to attend mass at the home church of the Archbishop of Delhi (a position that was changing on that day with the new guy replacing the outgoing guy that afternoon).

India Gate: closed off already for the Republic Day activities

Jami Masjid: India's largest mosque was completed in 1656 and is in use to this day. It has three imposing black and white marble domes and twin minarets framing its central arch. A long flight of sandstone steps leads to the arched entrances. From the elevated base you have great views over Old Delhi. It was busy but not crowded when we were in the mosque - but outside was crowded, dirty, noisy Old Delhi.

Qutub Minar: within the area the focal point is a five storeyed Victory Tower (victory for the Muslim sultans winning control of the area in 1192). Again wonderful stonework with carved panels and reliefs. The complex is fairly large and home to thousands of pigeons that guns or firecrackers sent flying in great flocks every fifteen minutes or so.

Humayun's Tomb: This tomb was built by the widow of the second Mughal emperor. It is a Mughal garden tomb and served as inspiration for other grand monuments (especially the Taj Mahal). Highlights were the use of marble and the fine trellis work carved into stone.

Handicraft shopping: I was sold…. that is to say the price for an 1800 per share inch Kashmir carpet (small size) was just right. And then I successfully fended off the buy more chatter. Mom was sold on cushion coffers and some wonderful pieces of silver jewelry.

Road to Mandawa

Monday morning we headed out at 8:30 for drive to the city of Mandawa. Once again "serenaded" by Mr Manoj's collection of Bollywood and Hindi music (actually appropriate for drives through the Indian countryside). It took some time to get through the rush hour of Delhi traffic with three lane highways becoming six lanes and a continuous stream of horn honking to try to gain favourable road position. Our drive, Mr Manoj, managed it with ease and a manual shift! Then it was out into the state highway system that for stretches was OK paving, then bumpy potholes, then complete dirt tracks (especially when going through the heart of the towns and villages). We shared the road with other cars, vans, pedicabs, trucks, lorries, motorcycles, horse-drawn carriages, camel-drawn carriages, donkey-drawn, people-drawn carriages, and tractor-drawn carriages. For the most part vehicles (other than cars and vans) were all brightly painted with flowers, art work and slogans. These colours were further highlighted when seen in the villages and towns that were for the most part quite drab grey and blackish stain looks.

Mandawa

Our hotel here was the Castle Mandawa which was one of the largest Havelis (mansions) in Mandawa. Like a castle it had multiple connected buildings with courtyards and towers and open areas. A nice touch were the staff who were done in costume from one of the raj periods. Our room was huge, with sitting area separate from sleeping area and easily covered 500 square feet.

The havelis of Rajasthan were mansions that are famous for the extensive detailed frescoe paintings that covered many of their walls. Mandawa has been referred to as the "open air gallery" because of the large number of havelis here. Paintings vary from representative to real and from traditional to recent (mid-1930s). Some have been retouched and are vibrant but many have aged and are now quite washed out. Unless the haveli has been converted into an hotel or museum they are now becoming run down as the owners have mostly all moved away and seldom visit.

The main street of the town was quite colourful and held a number of the havelis. As everywhere animal drawn carts and carriages as well as cattle on the loose shared the street with pedestrian and motorized traffic. Off of the main street we dropped into one shop to be enticed into purchasing a shawl - pashmina top quality, pashmina second and third quality, and pashmina and silk blend, or other fabric (cashmere, wool, etc.). Shop keeper did not make a sale but we learned a lot and definitely could feel the difference between the top of the line and the also rans - but at over Euro 125 for a shawl the prices were more than we were going to spend.

Road to Bikaner

A slightly later start, 9:00, and we were on the road again. No rush hour from this point, just a regular use of the horn to signal intentions. Signalling even to cattle (which I do not know how much they paid attention). The weather remained wonderful - chilly but blue sky sunny. This section of travel had a bit more varied landscape - semi desert and farmlands and treed scrap areas. The road quality remained a mixed bag of OK and terrible. Camels were much more common on the road and in the fields.

Bikaner

Along with Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, Bikaner was one of the three Desert Kingdoms of Rajasthan (prosperous because of its position on the overland trading route to Central Asia and China). Here the amazing architecture is not from paint on the walls but from the intricate carvings of and use of red sandstone to build many of the buildings.

Our hotel, Lalgarh Palace, is also one of the highlight complexes of the town. Besides the palace which was converted into a 5-star hotel there are also the public gardens and the main museum of the town. The palace is a sprawling extravaganza of carved friezes, pillars and arches in the distinctive reddish-pink local sandstone. Once again our room was large and elegant.

On the down side Mom got a chill and was not feeling well for most of this day and night. Making matters worse was the barking dog (carried on all night) and a fellow guest (probably a member of the wedding reception party that took over the hotel) mistaking our room for his (fortunate for door stops).

We did not do much touring of Bikaner but we did head in with our driver to the Junagarh Fort inside of the city walls. Mom kept Mr Manoj company in the car and I headed into and toured the fort. This fort was never conquered (partly due to location in the Thar Desert and partly due to its construction with long sandstone walls and 37 bastions. It is in great shape and now shows off collections of the various Maharajas who owned it. Like other major buildings of Bikaner the red sandstone has been gorgeously carved with intricate detail. And since this is India there were camels, stalls, and profusion/confusion right up to the moat surrounding the fort.

Road to Jaisalmer

A new chilly sunny blue sky day. And Mom is finally feeling her usual self again. 9:00 and on the road again. This time the road was mostly straight straight straight and very little in the way of potholes, dirt sections or rough patches. We finally met the railroad crossing bar as we waited twice for trains to proceed on by. The landscape here is unbelievably flat, arid, and semi-desert. Being winter it was quite brown but I guess that is also due to this being part of the Thar Desert. Although our speed and my camera speed made it impossible, we did see deer and camel herds along the horizon.

Jaisalmer

Once again we are staying in an Heritage Hotel - Fort Rajwada. The building is constructed of intricately carved local yellow sandstone with elegantly appointed rooms. It is set about 5 km outside of the walls of the city so once again we are "locked" in to eating locally. There is a lovely swimming pool on site but the water is a bit on the chilly side as this is winter. For 6:00pm we headed up to the rooftop sunset bar for a drink and to watch the sunset.

Next day we headed out to tour the highlights of Jaisalmer. First was the manmade Gadisagar Lake. Built in 1367 in the desert to be a rainwater reservoir and was once the city's sole water supply. Now it is fed by the Indiri Gandhi Canal but the water is not used as the bottom of the lake is quite filthy and its use for scattering ashes makes it unsanitary. Along its banks are wide stone platforms (ghats) and temples.

On up to Jaisalmer Fort built in 1156 and in medieval times home to the city's entire population. Today thousands still live, rent free, within the fort making it India's only living fort. Royal palaces, a cluster of Jain temples, mansions and shops are all contained within its walls. But owing to the now rising ground water and other water piped into the fort it is now crumbling in many places. Conservation work is under way but the strain grows alongside. The fort was build of the local yellow sandstone and many buildings show the intricate carvings of the region. Within the fort I also visited the Jain Temple with even loads of marble sculptures and more intricate carvings.

Then through more local streets to Nathmal's Haveli. Here the intricately carved sandstone continued with some of the fresco paintings seen at havelis in other cities. Inside the mansion several rooms were stocked with beautiful carvings of camel bone (smaller pieces being a bone piece that was then carved and decorated; larger pieces were bone dust congealed together to form large blocks for carving and decoration). These pieces were available for sale with the funds going to maintenance of the haveli.

For our shopping fix we visited the Government Collective focussing on Pashmina. The knowledgeable sales guy explained that it is derived from the Pashma goat and the word mina for 'fine work' (the online Wikipedia simply says its the pashmina goat). The pashma goat lives in the Kashmir region of India. According to the shop assistant the wool from the throat and neck now are used to make real pashmina, and the wool from the back and belly now are used to make cashmere. Wool from the neck and throat cannot be dyed and cannot be mixed with other material - so a "real" pashmina will only be in black, taupe, cream, beige and will not be a blend. The other wool from the pashma can be died and can be a blend. Best quality comes from the young pashma goat, with the fibres becoming stiffer as they are repeatedly harvested into adulthood. Of course other people will have other interpretations!

Road to Jodhpur

We started out the way we entered Jaisalmer on our way to Jodhpur. The roads once again were wonderful until we were about 100km from Jodhpur. Then it was more rough than not and added substantial time to our journey. We finally saw more visible evidence of a desert with several sand dunes right up against the highway, along with more tumbleweeds. Still mixed in were more trees and shrubs than I would have expected.

Jodhpur

The sun city (also called the blue city). Sun City for the dry heat in the summer months (50+ C but 0% humidity). Blue city from the number of indigo coloured walls and ceilings of many homes in the old town - previously the exclusive use of the brahma caste but now can be used by anyone. We arrive a little before 2:00pm and checked in and had lunch before going exploring.

Our guide today, Suresh, went off-plan and took us to a couple of the highlights and several shopping opportunities. Actually would have been better on plan as Mom looked forward to seeing the Mandore Gardens which we did not see at all! Next time I will quiz the guide to make sure specific areas of interest are indeed covered. Oh well, it was a pretty good tour anyway.

Our hotel was across a street and a large field from the new Royal Palace (occupied after the maharaja of Jodhpur vacated the Mehrangarh Fort). So once again we were near major historical sites. It was not open to the public but you do get the royal feel from afar.

Mehrangarh Fort remains private (within a trust set up by the maharaja - with all entrance fees going to its upkeep. It is built on the highest hill of Jodhpur and amazing views are had from many portions of the fort. Often described as the most majestic of Rajasthan's forts. The bastioned walls, parts of which are hewn out of the rock itself, are in places 24 metres thick and 40 metres high. Gorgeous sandstone intricately carved, fresco painting, gold filigree, marble floors and features, and brilliant stained glass windows. But the highlight is the view that is had over the city. From almost all angles you see out to the horizon.

Jaswant Thada located only short distance from the fort on a natural lake. It consists of an elegant pillared marble memorial with fine lattice carving. A memorial to the maharaja that brought water and prosperity to this parched land. Now a quite holy site with prayers and flowers offered at the memorial.

Spice Market and other shopping… Suresh mentioned vanilla and Mom was sold! Off to the spice market. The drink they offered was very tasty (cinnamon, saffron, and cardamon) but no we did not buy. Traditional Garam Masala and Dry Ginger caught my eye and I bought! But Mom wanted vanilla - unfortunately no extract / bottled version, as they only had the beans (a large number for about US$33 - but still a lot cheaper than elsewhere). So we bought them - and now the challenge is to find a recipe to turn them into the liquid she wants - ANYONE have a recipe???

And of course we were then dragged off to the traditional jewelry and fabric / carpet shops. But surprise Mom almost bought at the jewelry store (a nice emerald ring in white gold, but the setting she liked had a stone that was cloudy - but good to look anyway). And I actually bought 2 bedspreads from the local shop that produces for some of the world's leading designers (you will have to see them to hear the stories - and prices!).

Road to Mt Abu

On the road again… This time we headed into a change of scenery as we left the arid near-desert conditions and started to roll through countryside that was dotted with many farms. Some green and growing, others lying fallow for a season. Still fairly deserted population wise. And then we headed up into a mountain range with increasing signs of water in streams and pools. The altitude increased enough for our ears to pop. The roads were good but narrow and switch-back for a lot of the route.

We stopped of to see the Ranakpur Jain Temple which is set in a secluded (except for all the worshippers and tourists), wooded valley. It was built in the 15th century and has an unusual four-sided plan, with four separate entrances. Each of the temples 1,444 pillars is carved with different patterns of floral motifs. Truly an amazing building.

Further along we descended to farm country and had another hour before heading back up into a different mountain range leading to the hill station, Mt Abu.

Mt Abu

Another Heritage Hotel, Connaught House, is our home for two nights. It is perched on a hillside way up the mountains and in the town of Mt Abu. Greenery all around with birds singing and the sun shining. Quite a lovely hotel with fewer than 15 rooms (actually suites). Service however is a bit (well a lot) on the slow side.

Our driver, Mr Manoj, played tour guide today. We stopped first at the local Nakki Lake to view the waters and the colonial era mansions that ring it. I thought that we were at the top of the mountains but he found a way to take us much higher along narrow (nearly one lane wide, but two way traffic) roads that twisted and turned as we climbed to 1,721 metres (Rajasthan's highest point) and visited Achalgarh. There Mom had porters to carry her up the hundreds of steps to reach the top. I was breathing quite heavily just walking these steps and this altitude yet the two porters took the steps and quite a clip, only stopping a couple of times for a short rest. Outstanding views from the temples at the top. You saw huge flat plains with mountain ranges poking up in several points.

Back down the mountain a ways and we stopped at a sanctuary at a man made lake (Thalmer Tal). Nice little spot but local tourists were making perhaps just too much noise so we only saw a single crocodile and lovely kingfisher. Further down the mountain we stopped again at the Dilwara Jain Temples which are said to be one of India's most spectacular sights (from inside where no photography at all is allowed). The outside is not nearly as nice as Ranakpur which we saw the day before. Finally we stopped again at Nakki Lake - the other side - and saw up close the helium balloon and horses available for hire. The afternoon we then had to ourselves before heading out again to catch the sunset from Toad's Rock and Sunset Point. Thousands of tourists (mostly Indian) were all heading from the parking lot to the viewing points. Along the way corn was on the boil and being roasted to tempt people's appetites. Popcorn and traditional Indian snacks were also being hawked. For those not caring to walk you could hire a horse, or a small 2-seater wagon pushed by energetic people. Mom and I walked - but she did take the cart back, and as they were so much faster I arrived a bit later to find her and our driver buying some of the roasted corn on the cob. Delicious.

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